Spring is the reset button for most lawns in Australia. Soil warms, turf wakes up, and growth speeds up after winter dormancy. If you get mowing right now, the lawn thickens, resists weeds, and handles summer heat better. If you get it wrong, you chase scalped patches, weak roots, and a stressed lawn all season.
So, let’s lays out simple, practical mowing rules for spring within the wider context of Australian Lawn Care, with clear steps you can follow right away.
Why Spring Mowing Matters
Spring sets the growth pattern for the entire warm season. Regular mowing encourages lateral spread and tillering, which fills bare gaps and builds a dense canopy. That density shades the soil surface, reduces evaporation, and blocks weed seeds from getting light. Even if you water and feed well, mowing is still the lever that shapes thickness and resilience.
The Short Answer: How Often to Mow in Spring
Plan on mowing every 7 to 10 days in early spring, moving to every 5 to 7 days as temperatures climb and growth ramps up. The actual interval depends on your grass type, recent rain, fertiliser use, and soil temperature. Rather than locking into a fixed schedule, use the one third rule. Never remove more than one third of the leaf blade in a single cut. If the lawn grows fast and hits that limit in five days, mow in five. If it grows slowly and does not reach that point for ten days, wait until then.
Warm-Season vs Cool-Season Grasses
Different grasses push growth at different times, so mowing frequency shifts by type.
- Warm-season grasses such as buffalo, couch, and kikuyu accelerate through mid to late spring. Expect to move from weekly to twice-weekly in growth surges if fertilised and well watered.
- Cool-season grasses such as rye and fescue pick up earlier in spring, then slow a little as heat arrives. Weekly mowing usually holds through spring with occasional midweek tidy-ups after rain.
Knowing your turf type prevents overcutting and helps you set a realistic routine that fits broader Australian Lawn Care practices.
Set the Right Cutting Height
Height is as important as frequency. Taller leaf blades support deeper roots and better heat tolerance. Short heights can look neat for a day or two, but they raise water demand and invite weeds.
- Buffalo: 40 to 60 mm suits most yards.
- Couch: 20 to 30 mm if you can mow often and keep blades sharp.
- Kikuyu: 30 to 50 mm to manage thatch and keep the canopy balanced.
- Rye or fescue: 40 to 60 mm to protect crowns and reduce summer stress.
Adjust height gradually. If winter left the lawn long, raise the deck for the first cut, then step down one notch at a time over two to three mows. Avoid the urge to jump straight to a low setting.
Follow the One Third Rule Every Time
The one third rule protects the plant’s energy reserves and reduces scalping. It also sets your mowing rhythm naturally. If you want a lower height, reduce it over successive mows rather than in one aggressive cut. This rule alone prevents most spring issues and aligns with practical Australian Lawn Care guidelines used by pros and keen home gardeners alike.
Plan for Growth Surges After Rain and Feeding
Rain and fertiliser trigger quick flushes of growth. When this happens, tighten your interval for a fortnight. A lawn that usually needs mowing every seven days may need a pass at day five, then day nine, to keep to the one third rule. Two lighter cuts are always better than one heavy cut.
Mulch or Catch: What Works Best in Spring
Mulch mowing returns nutrients and moisture to the soil and helps build organic matter. In spring, mulching is usually the best default if you are mowing frequently. Switch to catching if the lawn is wet, if disease is present, or if you have let the grass get away on you and need to remove excess clippings. If you catch, add clippings to a compost bay rather than dumping them on garden beds where they can mat and repel water.
Blade Care and Equipment Checks
Sharp blades give clean cuts that heal faster. Dull blades tear leaf tips, which dry out and turn brown, making the lawn look patchy even when it is healthy.
- Sharpen or replace blades at the start of spring.
- Check deck level from side to side for an even cut.
- Clean the underside of the deck to prevent build-up that drags the grass down.
- Confirm throttle and wheel height adjustments work smoothly so you can make small changes as growth picks up.
These small checks pay off in better colour and fewer disease issues later.
Coordinate Mowing with Water and Fertiliser
Mow first, then water and feed. Cutting just before irrigation helps wash any dust from the canopy and supports quick recovery. If you are applying a granular fertiliser, mow, clear heavy clippings, apply the fertiliser evenly, and water in. If you use a foliar feed, wait a day after mowing so there is enough leaf area to absorb the product.
Edges, Shade, and High-Traffic Spots
Lawns rarely grow evenly. Edges near paving can heat up and dry faster. Shaded corners can stay soft and damp. High-traffic lanes thin out even when everything else looks fine.
- Raise the cut a notch on hot, exposed edges to avoid scalping.
- Lower the cut slightly in dense shade to improve airflow around crowns, but do not scalp.
- Consider stepping stones or a compacted path through high-traffic zones to protect the turf you want to keep.
Small local adjustments save more grass than blanket settings across the whole yard.
Common Mowing Mistakes to Avoid in Spring
You can spare yourself a lot of trouble by steering clear of a few traps.
- Scalping after a growth spurt. This removes too much leaf and exposes stems.
- Cutting too low too early. Step down over several mows rather than one big drop.
- Leaving clumps. Heavy clippings shade the canopy and cause yellowing. Make a second pass to spread them or catch and compost.
- Infrequent mowing. Waiting two or three weeks in spring forces you to break the one third rule.
- Mowing when the lawn is saturated. Wet soil compacts, footprints sink, and wheels scalp high spots.
Avoid these and your lawn will thicken quickly through spring, which is the aim of modern Australian Lawn Care.
Transition From Spring to Summer
Late spring is the time to prepare for heat. Your mowing plan supports that transition.
- Raise height slightly as summer approaches to shade the soil and reduce evaporation.
- Keep the one third rule so the canopy stays even.
- Plan deep, early watering rather than frequent sips. Deeper roots handle hot days better.
- Review fertiliser strategy. Avoid heavy nitrogen right before a heatwave. Choose a balanced feed or a slow-release option that supports steady growth without pushing soft tissue.
A lawn managed this way usually rides out early heat spikes with minimal stress.
Putting It All Together
Spring mowing is not about a perfect number on the calendar. It is about sticking to the one third rule, setting a height that matches your turf type, and adjusting your interval when rain or feeding speeds things up. Keep blades sharp, mulch most cuts, and mow before you water or feed. As summer approaches, lift height slightly and keep the routine steady.
For more lawn care tips, seasonal advice, and eco-friendly product recommendations, follow the Wirri blog. Stay tuned for updates!